vrijdag 22 februari 2013

Over draadspanning, boven en onder...

De mening dat je absoluut niet aan de spanning van je spoeltjeshuis mag komen is behoorlijk wijd verbreid in kleermakersland. In de tekst hieronder wordt een manier aangegeven waarbij het toch mogelijk is om deze aan te passen. Want soms is het gewoon echt nodig!!!! 

Golden Retrievers and Dalmatians

Getting the perfect stitch is the goal of all sewing. It is fine to use different threads in the top and the bottom, whether they be different fibre types (for example, cotton and polyester) or different thickneses. Adjustments for these differences are made with the tension settings, usually to the top tension, but occasionally to the bobbin.

Machines differ in tension settings from brand to brand. Some machines are like calm, loving Golden Retrievers - very eager to please and they love everything we do. Other machines are like high-strung Dalmatians, requiring lots of attention and extra training. Most machines are somewhere in the middle. Even within brands, there is some variance from machine to machine. Just like a dog, if we learn how to train or adjust the machine, it will serve us well and bring much happiness. An untrained machine (and dog) can cause more frustration than joy.

If you have experienced problems running decorative threads and have adjusted the top tension every possible way and still cannot get good results, the solution might lie in the bobbin tension setting. For example, if the top thread is breaking because the top tension is too tight, it is necessary to loosen it. If you loosen it to the point where the thread does not break, but the top thread then loops on the back, the top tension is now too loose. This is a common problem with some longarm machines. Neither of these solutions work and adjusting the tension settings in between these two extremes doesn't work so what can we do? The problem is that the top tension and bottom tension are too far out of sync so no matter what we do to the top tension, it will not solve the problem.

In order to fix this, we must loosen the bobbin tension. Many of us were taught to NEVER touch the bobbin tension. That was when thread choices were very limited and decorative threads hadn't yet been invented or used on high speed and longarm machines. Times have changed. If you can thread a sewing machine, you can adjust the bobbin tension. There is no need to spend money on a second bobbin case. With a permanent marker, put a dot where the tension screw is now pointing to so you can always return to the original setting. Then, with a screwdriver and thinking of a clock, make adjustments by turning the screw equivalent to what a 10-15 minute movement would be. Counter-clockwise loosens the tension (the most commonly required adjustment) and clockwise tightens the tension. Remember, lefty loosey, righty tighty.

For longarm machines, the bobbin tension should be loose enough that if you hold the bobbin case in your left hand and pull the thread up with your right hand, the bobbin case should not lift off your left hand. The old "4 inch drop test" is gone.

Now, after having loosened the bobbin tension, any adjustments you make to the top tension will be more effective because the top and bottom tensions are more in sync. You should be able to pull the thread through the needle fairly easily without feeling much tension.
This educational piece was kindly copied with the permission of Bob Purcell of SuperiorThreads.com 


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